Cambodia: 15 Days of Adventure and Discovery
Phnom Penh
Arriving in Phnom Penh is an immediate dive into a vibrant city where history and modernity intersect at every corner. Within the first few hours, we step inside the Royal Palace, a true architectural gem where golden opulence contrasts with the serenity of the gardens. Just a stone’s throw away, the Silver Pagoda captivates us: its silver-tiled floor shimmers softly under the light while the crystal Buddha sits majestically, an embodiment of peace and refinement.
The afternoon takes us on a journey through time. The National Museum, with its statues and Angkorian relics, offers a fascinating insight into the ancient Khmer civilization. But it’s at the Tuol Sleng Museum (S21 Prison) where we experience a profound emotional shock. The walls still whisper stories of past atrocities, plunging us into deep, somber reflection.
To lighten our spirits, we end the day at the Russian Market, a maze of colorful and bustling stalls where we browse through silks, jewelry, and souvenirs.
From Phnom Penh to Siem Reap
The next day, our journey to Siem Reap begins with an unexpected wait at the bus station, as the first bus is fully booked. No matter—we share the moment with locals, savoring delicious and authentic Cambodian street food. Once on board, the landscape unfolds before our eyes: endless rice fields, stilt houses, and the untouched beauty of the Cambodian countryside.
Upon arrival, a tuk-tuk takes us to the tranquil Bloom Garden Guesthouse, where peace reigns. The evening is marked by an excursion to Phnom Batueng Temple. Although the sunset is stunning, the swarm of tourists with enormous telephoto lenses and the overworked elephants detract from the magic. Dinner at the guesthouse concludes our day, and we sleep early, eager to explore Angkor at dawn.
Angkor Temples – Part 1
At 4 AM, in the darkness, our tuk-tuk awaits to take us to Angkor Wat. The dawn slowly rises, and the first rays set the temple’s towers ablaze, reflecting poetically in the pools. We are among the first to enter, and for a brief moment, the place belongs to us.
Defying traditional itineraries, we choose to explore the circuit in reverse. This bold decision allows us to savor solitude in the presence of Ta Prohm, the temple where jungle and stone embrace in an eternal struggle. After a morning of discoveries, we return to the guesthouse for a much-needed break. Roan, our tuk-tuk driver, jokes about fuel consumption, adding humor to the day. In the afternoon, the Bayon Temple, with its 216 enigmatic faces, greets us in solemn silence. Each smile etched in stone seems to hold an ancient secret.
Angkor Temples – Part 2
On the fourth day, we start with Pre Rup Temple, then head to Banteay Srei, delicately carved in radiant pink sandstone. Every detail tells a story of extraordinary finesse.
However, temple fatigue sets in, and despite their beauty, we begin to feel a bit weary. We choose to end the day at Preah Khan, left in ruins and still embraced by the jungle. Its raw beauty and authenticity rekindle the awe that a long day had nearly dulled.
Back at the guesthouse, we book our seats for the boat journey to Battambang, an adventure promising stunning landscapes.
From Siem Reap to Battambang by Boat
Before dawn, we head to the dock. The boat glides slowly on the Tonle Sap river through a natural reserve, where majestic birds soar over the reeds. Floating villages appear, seemingly suspended between sky and water. I spend the day perched on the boat’s roof, soaking in an unparalleled panoramic view. A sunburn on my feet later reminds me that even wonder doesn’t exempt one from sunscreen precautions in these latitudes.
As we progress, the waterway narrows, bringing us closer to the shores where fishermen’s daily life unfolds like a painting. Finally, Battambang welcomes us, and after dodging overly persistent drivers, we find a simple, quiet hotel recommended by our tuk-tuk driver after our first choice proves unwelcoming.
Battambang and Its Surroundings
The morning passes slowly before we set off with Mister Happy, our cheerful driver from the day before. A colonial house, the central market with its famous clock without hands, and a tasting of bamboo sticky rice—a delicious mixture of rice, black berries, and coconut milk, steamed inside bamboo—make for a memorable day. I buy a few for future snacks.
In the afternoon, we visit the fish market, where the previous day’s river catch is prepared, and local Nuoc Mam is made. The smell is intense. Rain interrupts our plans to visit the rice paper factory, which closes when it rains. A stop south of the city leads to a local wine tasting, though the overly sweet wine bears little resemblance to European varieties.
We then navigate muddy tracks to reach the Bamboo Train, a bamboo platform on axles offering a 14-kilometer ride through tall grass.
Overnight Journey from Battambang to Koh Kong
At 11:30 PM, our bus arrives—a wreck with cracked windows, crammed with locals and their chickens. What follows is a chaotic negotiation over seats, a true comedy sketch.
A sunrise stop in Phnom Penh offers a peaceful interlude before we doze off to the sound of onboard karaoke, arriving in Koh Kong by afternoon. We relax by the hotel pool and enjoy a quiet dinner at a nearby restaurant.
After chatting with the manager—an ex-French policeman with a dubious past—we book a boat tour to Koh Kong Island, departing at 8:30 AM.
Koh Kong Island
Our boat sways dangerously, but the destination is worth the thrills. The island unveils its wild charms, and a barbecue prepared by the crew creates a shared moment under the radiant sun. The return trip through the mangrove forest adds a touch of magic to the day.
Four Days on Koh Thmei Island
Our stay at Koh Thmei Resort feels like time suspended. The island is deserted, home to just eight bungalows and a German-run restaurant. Located in the Ream National Park, a protected area, we’re assured that no further developments will spoil its pristine beauty. Between swims in crystal-clear waters, reading under palm trees, and savoring delicious meals, we embrace the island’s slow rhythm.
Kampot and Kep
Leaving our paradise island, we head south to Kampot. Our accommodation is an unusual stilted hut, but the region is unfortunately infested with mosquitoes.
After a bike ride through the village, we rent a semi-automatic motorbike to explore. A refreshing detour leads us to Preah Monivong National Park (Bokor National Park) at 1,000 meters altitude, where we find cool mist and remnants of French colonial history. The return descent is done in neutral gear to avoid running out of fuel—our last adventure before the trip ends.
The Elephant Cave turns out to be a scam, with locals tampering with our motorbike and demanding payment for “repairs.” A heated argument results in them fixing it for free. The day redeems itself with a sunset boat ride on the river.
The next morning, we visit the famous Kampot pepper plantations, sparking a lifelong love for white pepper from Kampot. After a spontaneous ride through salt marshes, we end our trip at the Kep Crab Market, where the salty sea air mingles with grilled seafood aromas. A crab, freshly plucked from a sea cage, is cooked and served—a feast of ultimate freshness.
Return to Phnom Penh
A taxi ride back to Phnom Penh wraps up our journey. We take one last look at Cambodia, its treasures, and its contrasts, leaving with unforgettable memories.
